RV Improvements: 2006 19' Trail Cruiser

INTRODUCTION: We plan to use our travel trailer quite a bit in the future, so I've been making some repairs and improvements to it. Thought it'd be fun to document them here, and provide ideas for others who are doing the same.

SPECS: The maker of this RV (R-Vision Trail-Cruiser by Trail-Lite) is out of business. We bought the trailer in 2014 from a family in north county who was no longer using it, and it was in good shape. Though we had NOT heard of R-Vision, it was hardly used and seemed to be of good quality, design and layout.

This is what it looked like when we first bought it:

Here's the Spec Sheet that came with it. Note that even though the manufacturer lists the RV at 22 feet, 5 inches, the trailer "box" is 18 feet, 8 inches, leaving a "discrepancy" of 3 feet 9 inches, which is assumedly account for by the length of the tongue. When comparing RV trailer lengths, make sure you are making an "apples to apples" comparison (box length to box length, or full length to full length - including tongue). While shopping, I prefer to use the "box length" for comparison, as tongue lengths can vary a little bit.

Interior headroom is 6' 4" which is sufficient for us. Also, it neatly sizes all 3 tanks at 30 gallons (fresh water, black water, gray water), which makes it easy to remember! Though the trailer is quite light compared to others of the same sizes (dry weight of 3,000 pounds), the trailer frame is stamped with a "Gross Weight" of 6,250 pounds, leaving a theoretical "Cargo Weight" of about 3,000 pounds - more than the weight of the trailer. We were happy that the builders chose a high capacity trailer frame, giving us confidence that they had not "under-built" the trailer. On many RVs, the "Cargo Weight" is much lower, and would be a cause for concern to us. I tow the trailer with a 2006 Dodge Diesel 2500 with a 6 speed manual transmission and a 12,500 pound trailer towing capacity, so the weight is not an issue.

LAYOUT: Our basic criteria for our travel trailer were as follows:

- No slide-outs, but still a functional layout (prefer great "box integrity" by not having slide-outs).

- 2 Beds that comfortably sleep 2 full-size adult couples 

- Large Dinette with room for 4 full-size adults

- As small as possible, but still meets the above criteria

- Dual axle trailer, both for greater safety during a tire blow-out, and better straightline performance (less sway). Good discussion of single vs. dual axle trailers here: Single vs. Dual Axle Trailer

Our Trail-Cruiser met our basic criteria. As we have owned RVs previously, we know from that experience that modifying an RV to fit our needs would be mandatory. Fortunately, I find the mods to be fun to do, so I don't mind, and it sure makes the RV more fun to use!

Project 1: Truck Alternator / Starter Battery Charging  

The truck uses 2 12-volt starting batteries (Costco Kirkland Brand), while the trailer uses 2 12-volt so-called Deep Cycle Marine / RV batteries (also Costco Kirkland Brand). To optimize the life of these batteries, each type requires a different charging regimen. My current setup charges both my truck "starter" batteries and RV "deep cycle" batteries the same. 

Here is a link from an "Energy engineer" that explains why this is bad, and reduces the life of the deep cycle batteries. This makes sense to me, as previous RVs I have owned used deep cycle / lead acid / RV - Marine batteries, and had a short life (about 2 years) despite keeping them charged. Here's the link: Deep Cycle Charging with your Alternator

Check out this web site for a solution to charging our RV batteries from the tow vehicle using a DC-to-DC 12 volt battery charger: How to Efficiently Charge our RV Trailer Batteries While Driving This article uses the "REDARC Electronics Dual Input 40A in-Vehicle DC Battery Charger", which costs about $450 on Amazon. Here is the link on Amazon: REDARC DC to DC Charger (Amazon) Note that with this installation, the actual charger is mounted in the RV, and NOT in the truck as I might have presumed. Wonder how I'll find room for it in my RV? Note that there is a 40 Amp DC to DC Charger that is much cheaper: Renogy 40A 40A DC to DC Battery Charger

Questions: 

(1) What is the actual max output of my alternator? I have always believed it was 130 amps, but I do not know for sure, and perhaps other "same year" Cummins truck models came with a higher output alternator? Note for the future: whenever my alternator craps out, I'll want to upgrade it to a higher output unit.  

(2) Circuit breakers: is it practical to use an in-line auto-reset circuit breaker? 

(3) Is my built-in converter (110 A/C input to charge 12 volt batteries) any good, or should it be replaced? How do I know it is properly charging my current deep cycle lead acid batteries? What is the charging profile for flooded lead acid deep cycle batteries? 

Many basic single-stage converters, typically found in older and lower-priced coaches, are still in use. They don’t have the sophisticated internal circuitry to properly charge and condition batteries. Some converter models supply only a fixed voltage of around 13.2 volts, which prevents batteries from reaching full charge and also shortens their service life. Modern multi-stage charging circuits typically include four operation modes: boost, normal, equalization and storage (or float). ACTION: test the converter on my trailer with discharged batteries to see what output the converter puts out.

Many owners don’t even know where their converter is located. Typically it’s a metal box a little bigger than a large box of facial tissues and is situated adjacent to the fuse panel, near where the wiring comes into the coach. When it is powered up, it gives off a humming sound, which can help you locate it. Usually the make and model and power ratings are written on the case. You can also look up the ratings in the manuals that come with the RV.